To PCCB or not?

Recently there was an industry article about Porsche’s PCCB (Porsche Ceramic Composite Brake; signified by their yellow calipers) and whether they were the best brakes to use for track days (including high performance driver education, autocross, etc) or those who are heavy-footed on the “slow” pedal. Porsche Australia’s technical representative Paul Watson reported that iron brake discs are recommended over carbon discs for those who are heavy on the brakes or tracking their vehicle. Why? The issue revolves around heat; heat can quickly degrade the carbon fibers in the PCCB discs. The harder you are on the brake pedal, the more friction(heat) builds up, taxing the carbon rotors quicker than iron/steel rotors would be taxed in the same braking scenario.

You might remember long ago that Porsche had stated that PCCB’s could last the lifetime of the vehicle. This could be true for the owner who has the vehicle sitting in a collection and rarely drives it, or who drives light-footed on the brakes. But for spirited drivers and those hard on the brake pedal including during any “track” exercises, PCCB’s may wear out sooner than you anticipated. With replacement costs in the $20k+ range for front and rear, it might make you re-think adorning the sexy PCCB’s on your next Porsche.

So who are PCCB’s probably the best for?

-All-out racecars where the driver wants the lightest unsprung weight for best acceleration and deceleration (calculated in milliseconds), and have the budget for changing out worn brake parts often.

-Those who are light on the brakes and want the unique look of carbon-ceramic rotors and yellow calipers.

-Those who are OCD about keeping their vehicle as clean as possible, as carbon brakes significantly reduce the amount of brake dust accumulating on the wheels/vehicle (although it is important to note that there are ceramic brake pads available for vehicles with iron discs who want to reduce brake dust, but keep in mind ceramic pads typically require a bit more pedal effort to be applied than semi-metallic brake pads do).

Please feel welcome to post here with any questions.

Jeremy Williams is the Oregon PCA Technical editor. He co-owns Matrix Integrated Inc. (Matrix Integrated Inc.) with his brother Justin. Jeremy can be reached at techeditor@oregonpca.org

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Porsche Traction in the Winter

Are you daily driving your Porsche sportscar with summer tires in these winter months? Wanting to take it up to the mountain for winter activities, but hesitant to do so because it’s rear-wheel drive (RWD) vs all-wheel drive (AWD)? Or are you driving your AWD Cayenne or Macan up to the mountain with summer tires, confident that AWD will get you through whatever Mother Nature throws your way? Here’s a fantastic video about why winter tires are extremely important in the winter months, on RWD (or FWD) or even AWD vehicles! I think you may be a bit surprised as to what your vehicle is capable of with the proper tires:

Please feel welcome to post here with any questions.

Jeremy Williams is the Oregon PCA Technical editor. He co-owns Matrix Integrated Inc. (Matrix Integrated Inc.) with his brother Justin. Jeremy can be reached at techeditor@oregonpca.org

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Wind Buffeting – What is it? How Can I Alleviate it?

Have you ever heard the term “wind buffeting” and wondered what the heck it is? No, it’s not a new buffet restaurant at an Oregon Coast casino.

You’ve most likely experienced it already, but maybe weren’t sure what the phenomenon was called. Remember the times when you’ve been driving near or above freeway speeds with one window down, and you experience that sound and pressure which makes your head feel like it’s about to implode, and the quickest remedy is to roll another window down? That’s wind buffeting, which is described as the turbulent wind pressure experienced while driving at speed. If you’re a motorcyclist you might be familiar with it too; a result of the wind coming around a windshield or a fairing, causing your helmet to shake.

Wind buffeting is an issue on most vehicles, some worse than others. The new generations of Porsche Boxster, Cayman, and 911 are especially prone to this phenomenon. But there is help, beyond driving with both windows up, or both windows down. The folks at AWE Tuning in Pennsylvania are one such company who have created an elegant sort of mirror spoiler, called a Foiler Wind Diffuser, which eliminates wind buffeting on Porsche’s like the 2013+ “981” Boxster’s and Cayman’s, 2017+ 718’s, and 2013+ “991” 911’s.

Do you have an older Porsche model or another vehicle where wind buffeting is causing you a headache, yet there is no solution on the market? Crafty with wood, or familiar with one of the local plastic shops like TAP Plastics? Create your own using this style, and wave goodbye to wind buffeting, while letting the wind blow through your hair (unless you’re bald like me).

Please feel welcome to post here with any questions.

Jeremy Williams is the Oregon PCA Technical editor. He co-owns Matrix Integrated Inc. (Matrix Integrated Inc.) with his brother Justin. Jeremy can be reached at techeditor@oregonpca.org

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What the Heck is a PPI (Pre-Purchase Inspection)?

I’ve been hearing a lot of questions between members at ORPCA events, socials, auto-x, etc, about what to look for in this Porsche or that Porsche. Some have asked if they should spend the money to have a vehicle inspected before purchasing. So, let’s talk PPI’s (Pre-Purchase Inspections).

We all know that a Porsche is more than a vehicle, it’s an investment! And just like when buying a home, it’s highly recommended that you have a trained professional inspect the vehicle for any outstanding issues, deferred maintenance, or signs of tomfoolery. While I won’t cover every detail of a PPI, a general scope here will give you a solid idea as to the minimum of what you should expect to have covered:
— The Porsche specialist should drive the vehicle to check for any oddities during the road test (engine, transmission, brakes, wheel balance, alignment, etc.)
— With the vehicle on a lift, the technician should check for any fluid leaks (oil, gear/transmission, coolant if not aircooled, brake, power steering, etc.)
— Check for the conditions of fluids wherever possible
— Check for rubber related issues, often due to age; belts, mounts, seals, gaskets, boots, bushings, tire tread depth/condition/wear pattern/manufacture date
— Check outer brake pad depths at the minimum
— Check/test battery and charging system (i.e. alternator/generator)
— Check for any obvious signs of paint and/or body work
— Check other systems like lights, wipers, HVAC, radio, etc.
— Check electronic fault codes on ‘95+ vehicles (also check for signs of mechanical overrevs on 996/997’s, as well as camshaft deviation % on 986/996/997 due to a possible timing chain system issues)
— Compression test at the minimum on aircooled Porsches
— Check for any notorious and well-known issues specific to the exact model (this could even include cutting open the oil filter on an M96-engine’d 986/996/997 to check for metal and plastic debris from a failing IMS bearing or timing chain guide rails)

If the vehicle is a rare variant or special edition, making sure that the “numbers” (VIN, engine, etc.) match is very worthwhile, especially if you’re looking at spending top dollar for the vehicle.

Information gleaned from the PPI can help you budget for current and future repairs, as well as help you know if the vehicle asking price is fair, inflated, and/or should be adjusted based on PPI findings. After all, this is an investment you’re purchasing.

Please feel welcome to post here with any specific questions.

Jeremy Williams is the Oregon PCA Technical editor. He co-owns Matrix Integrated Inc. (Matrix Integrated Inc.) with his brother Justin. Jeremy can be reached at techeditor@oregonpca.org

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Oil Analysis; Another Diagnostic Tool

Most of us try to take care of our Porsche’s in ways that exceed required maintenance and recommended service. If we are not DIY mechanics, we take our cars to specific Porsche service providers that know our cars and have lots of experience. Those service providers can use a variety of diagnostic tools to advise us of our cars condition. Those diagnostics include; computer scan tools, compression tests, leakdown tests, exhaust analyzers, examining oil filter elements for debris, etc. There is another diagnostic tool that can provide a wealth of information on our engine’s condition; engine oil analysis. Airplane owners, large commercial truck operators and racing engine builders have been using oil analysis for years. As an owner of a Porsche that could develop an IMS bearing problem, I have my oil filter torn apart and examined at every oil change (see Jeremy’s article on this topic). I have recently added oil analysis to my diagnostics. Oil analysis is similar in concept to your family doctor running a blood panel. The blood analysis results are compared to a range of values that are found in healthy humans. Specific results outside of a normal band usually draw attention to an existing or developing problem. Oil analysis does the same thing on a sample of your engine’s oil.

I use Blackstone Labs based in Fort Wayne, Indiana. You can request an oil analysis kit through a phone call or email and they send one (or more) out at no cost. The kit includes a sample bottle, labels, an information sheet and a shipping container.

A sample is taken while changing your oil. The sample should come from the midstream of the draining oil, not the first or the last spurts, but in the middle. The sample is then mailed back to Blackstone in the provided postage prepaid container, along with the information sheet that you fill out. The oil received is then run through a chemical and physical analysis spectrum and compared to the spectrums from similar engines. Besides the results of more than 20 specific elements, Blackstone provides written comments about your oil and engine condition:

This way you know if there’s an internal engine issue taking place. The cost? Only $28!! This has to be one of the best investments that you can make in taking care of your car. If you’re not a DIY person, local Porsche specialty shops can do it for you.

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Part 3 – Hibernating Your Porsche

If you’re going to be putting away your beloved Porsche for the winter weather, here are some areas to think about in regard to vehicle hibernation:

#1 Fluids
Ideally, it’d be best to have the oil/filter changed before you put the vehicle away for hibernation, AND THEN again when it comes out of hibernation in the spring. The reason for this is to get rid of any nasty contaminants/condensation in the oil before they sit in the engine/crankcase for the winter months (these contaminants/condensation could cause some minor engine corrosion), and then by changing at least the oil again in the spring after hibernation (you can probably skip the filter change in the spring since the filter hasn’t been used much save for 1 or 2 starts), you’re getting rid of any possible condensation that may have accumulated over the winter.
However, I understand that this process can be expensive due to the cost of high quality engine oil (either high Zinc content for aircooled’s, or full synthetic for watercooled’s). So, if I was given a choice to change the oil/filter only a SINGLE time, either before or after winter hibernation, it’d really come down to mileage on the current oil/filter. If you have considerable mileage (~1500-4000mi) and especially short trips on the oil/filter as you head into late fall, then I’d recommend changing the oil/filter before the car goes into winter hibernation. If you just recently changed the oil/filter in earlier fall (less than ~1000mi on it), then I’d recommend changing it again when the car comes out of hibernation as any condensation that builds up in the new oil during the winter will get burned off in the spring once you start driving.

What about other fluids like transmission, gear, power steering, clutch, windshield washer, and brake? The only fluid that might gather considerable worrisome condensation over the winter is the brake fluid. The amount of water content in your brake fluid can be checked with a fluid tester, and it should not have more than 2% water content in it. Like with the oil change now or later question, if the brake fluid has 3.5%+ moisture, it’d be best to flush/bleed the brake fluid before going into hibernation. If it has 2-3.5%, then after hibernation may be best.

Be sure to fill your fuel tank all the way to the top. This will save your fuel system from oxidation and will also displace any water that may currently be in the system. Be sure to add the fuel system stabilizer at the same time, following their specific direction.

#2 Pre-storage
The next step is to find a good clean, dry, secure location to store your car. A garage with a concrete pad is ideal. Start by cleaning out the interior of the car. Vacuum, dust, clean…the more spotless your car is, the better it will handle storage. This is essential to preventing mold, mildew and critters from overcoming your precious interior. You might put a bag or two of silica gel, which absorbs any moisture in the air, on the floorboards to keep the interior extra dry.
Once the interior is spotless, you should now focus your attention on the exterior of the car. Start by washing the car from top to bottom. Make sure to really clean the wheels well, as brake dust is very corrosive. However, do not put the vehicle away wet! This is tricky if you try to drive the car right up to that first heavy rainy or snowy day. You should never put your car away wet unless you want to encourage mildew, mold, and/or rust to form everywhere the water collects.

When you wash the car use this opportunity to make sure that all the drains work. It’s not uncommon for drains to clog up during the fall with leaves, debris, etc. There are surprisingly more drains in the car than you think.

After washing and drying the car, if you haven’t detailed your car in a while, give it a proper wax job if it’s not too cold in your garage, as high-quality wax can be difficult to apply when it’s cold out.

#3 Storage
When all maintenance and cleaning items have been covered, you are now ready to position the car for storage.

Persnickety tip; If you really want to go overboard, you can lay down a waterproof plastic drop-sheet where you will be storing the car. Before purchasing the plastic sheet, insure it is large enough to envelop the lower half of your vehicle. Park the car on the plastic drop sheet. The reason you should have a waterproof drop sheet is to prevent fluid transfers in both directions (ie prevent water vapor from rising from below the car, and prevent vehicle fluids from staining the cement storage pad). If you’re storing your vehicle outside, the plastic sheet will also help prevent lazy rodents from finding a nice winter nest up in your cabin filter area, engine bay, or interior. It might also be a good idea to lay a few non-poisonous rodent traps around if your vehicle can be easily accessed from outside, unless you have small children who will want to play with the traps. If you poison the rodents, they may then climb inside the vehicle and perish there, leaving you with a very nasty odor. Rodents are always looking for a cozy winter home and we have seen many client cars who have had nests built in their vehicle or engine bay. Your next step would be to tuck the plastic drop sheet up and around the bottom half of your vehicle. This once again prevents moisture from diffusing from underneath the car.

Once the car is in position, you can place the car on jack stands if you wish. The reasoning for this is two-fold;
1) it takes the strain off suspension components, thus slowing the aging on such components as bushings and shocks
2) it prevents your tires from developing “flat spots”
If you are not sure how to jack up your car, consult the vehicle manual for approved jacking points.

Regardless of jacking the vehicle up, we recommend inflating your tires to the maximum psi listed on the outer sidewall of the tire. Check the pressures, including spare, every few weeks to watch for any slow leaks.

Persnickety tip: Plugging the exhaust tips with steel wool will help prevent rodents and other critters from using your exhaust system as a winter home.

The next area to turn your attention too will be the vehicle’s battery. Most batteries do not winter well at all. All batteries discharge over time so you must ensure that your battery does not discharge too much, otherwise, it will age prematurely. The best solution to this problem is a special type of battery charger called a battery tender or maintainer. We prefer the CTEK brand, which Porsche private labels as their own. These battery-saving “smart” devices “float” a battery charge at a specific voltage vs constantly charging the battery blindly which can ruin it. $75 for a battery maintainer can save you from buying a $150+ battery every couple of years.
When you connect the battery tender to the battery, inspect for any corrosion (whitish crust) on the two battery terminal posts If you have any corrosion, you’ll want to clean it off with a fine brush.

Some of you may be wondering if, every few weeks, you should start your vehicle and allow it to run for a period of time. Starting the vehicle, letting it idle for 10min, and then shutting it off is not recommended. This start/idle/shutdown procedure will not allow the engine to reach optimal operating temperature to burn off contaminants in the system, like driving the vehicle for 30min+ will. Instead, this start/idle/shutdown procedure can create condensation in the system which can cause corrosion, contamination, and other issues.

At this stage, you’re almost done!

The last step will be to cover the car with a car cover if you have one, tucking the plastic sheet into the car cover. The ideal car cover for garage storage will be permeable and somewhat thick. Clearly the car should be covered to keep dust and sunlight from a garage window off of the vehicle. There are a large number of aftermarket car covers available. Don’t get the cheapest cover as it will be protecting your investment!

That’s it, you’re done winterizing your beloved Porsche. After a few months, your car will be ready to run free once again.

Feel free to post here with any specific hibernation questions.
Very happy holidays to you and yours!

Jeremy Williams is the Oregon PCA Technical editor. He co-owns Matrix Integrated Inc. (Matrix Integrated Inc.) with his brother Justin. Jeremy can be reached at techeditor@oregonpca.org

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Part 2 Winter Tech: Tires and Traction

Severe weather makes driving treacherous. Snow, ice, freezing rain, fog and even the winter sun can all conspire to make winter driving even more difficult and dangerous. With a little planning and a little training however, this winter doesn’t have to be a “white knuckle” winter for you. The two phenomenons associated with loss of grip in winter conditions are understeer and oversteer.

Understeer
Understeer is just what it sounds like; the car is not turning as much as you would like. Understeer is usually caused by entering a corner too fast, or by braking while trying to turn. Being in a car that refuses to turn can be very intimidating, and understeer is the most difficult situation to control on a slippery road.

So, what can you do in this situation? First, there are several things driving experts say you should NOT do. Don’t increase your steering angle, because the tires have already lost grip and increasing the steering will only make it worse. Don’t hit the brakes because the front tires are already skidding, and more brake pressure will only make it still worse.
Driving experts say that your best chance of correcting an understeer is to lift off the accelerator and stay off the brake. As the car’s weight shifts forward, it will load the front tires, improving their grip while you carefully decrease the steering angle. This improved grip and slower speed should allow you to steer smoothly back into the corner.

 
 
Oversteer
Like understeer, oversteer is exactly what it sounds like; your car turns more than you want it to. Oversteer occurs when you lose grip on the rear tires in a corner, and the side force pulls the back of the car to the outside of the turn. This is generally the result of excessive speed when entering a corner. However as well, if you suddenly decelerate in the corner, the weight transfers to the front, giving less grip to the rear tires and allows the centrifugal force to pull the back of the car to the outside of the curve. If your car starts to lose grip on the rear wheels because of this weight transfer, driving experts say you should gently accelerate to transfer the weight back to the rear wheels, while you steer in the same direction in which the rear end is sliding. Remember to look down the road in the direction you want the car to go.

All in all, driving experts say to avoid oversteer, adjust your speed before the corner. In rear-wheel drive cars, make sure the oversteer is not coming from simple wheel spin. If it is, adjust your accelerator pressure to eliminate the wheel spin.

 
 
Winter Air Pressure; You Can’t Just Set It…And Then Forget It
Maintaining the correct air pressure is a requirement for good handling, traction and durability. The tire pressure recommended in your vehicle’s owner’s manual or on the tire information placard on the driver side b-pillar is a “cold” pressure, so it should be checked in the morning before you drive more than a few miles.

The fall and early winter months are the most critical times to check your tire’s inflation pressures because air is a gas which contracts as the days get shorter and the temperatures get colder. For every 10-degree Fahrenheit change in outside temperature, your tire’s inflation pressure will change by about 1 psi (they’ll increase with higher temperatures and decrease with lower temps). If you park your Porsche in an attached or heated garage you will also “lose” pressure when you leave the warmth of the garage and venture into the real world outside. So, add 1 psi of “cold” tire pressure to compensate for each 10 degree temperature difference.

And finally, don’t forget to keep your valve stem caps on. If left off, moisture can freeze in the valve and allow the air to escape.

Any and all questions on these topics are welcome, please ask!

Part 3 of Winter Tech will discuss putting your Porsche away in hibernation. Until then, drive safe and alert!

Jeremy Williams is the Oregon PCA Technical editor. He co-owns Matrix Integrated Inc. (Matrix Integrated Inc.) with his brother Justin. Jeremy can be reached at techeditor@oregonpca.org

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Part 1 Winter Tech: Tires

As we head towards winter, we all need to be thinking about preparing our Porsche’s for either winter driving or hibernation (that is, unless you’re taking it with you to Arizona). Over the next few months in the Tech Blog, we will discuss winter related topics, much of it pulled from our previous ORPCA winter tech session titled “Fun With Old Man Winter.”
Our first topic will be winter tires. There is plenty of information on this topic, so we’ll just focus on some key highlights.

If you’ll be driving your Porsche this winter season, do you really need winter-specific tires? If your tires are bald 10 year-old summer tires, then you certainly should not be driving any further on them due to their expiration, winter or not. If you will be headed into the mountain passes, then you’ll definitely want to use winter-rated tires for extra safety and security. If you’ll be staying in the Portland/Vancouver metro area only, it’s worthwhile to seriously consider winter tires this season. While it’s great to have the luxury of staying off the roads when it’s snowing, it’s even better to have the freedom of movement that winter tires provide. As we’ve seen in previous years, how do you know where you will be when a winter storm hits–maybe at home, at work, or out of town visiting relatives for the holidays. And who ever had an emergency that they could schedule around the weather? Bottom line, is it worth gambling with the safety of your vehicle, yourself and others, especially when your collision deductible and future insurance premiums are on the table?
We all know that tires are a compromise. One tire can’t be the fastest on the track, most controllable in the snow, and longest wearing. The ultra-high-performance summer tire that grips the track is incompetent as its tread compound becomes like “hard plastic” at below 32°F. Specific winter tires deliver much better slush, snow and ice performance than summer or all-season tires because their tread designs/compounds are engineered to master those colder temps and winter conditions. How do they do this? New winter tires begin with deeper tread depths and more open tread designs, and they also feature softer tread compounds that remain pliable in extreme cold temperatures. Keep in mind that while the extra tread depth and softer compounds allow new winter tires to provide more traction in deep snow, it also contributes to more tread squirm and drivers may notice a reduction in handling responsiveness. A recommended 3-5psi increase in inflation pressures increase tire stability and help offset the reduction in responsiveness.

Are 2 winter tires enough, or should you use 4? Nearly every tire manufacturer recommends four winter tires be used on rear wheel, four wheel/all-wheel, and/or front wheel drive vehicles. This is because if you use two dissimilar types of tires on your vehicle, you’ll have a vehicle that has a “split” personality. One end of the vehicle won’t react and perform the same as the other in the dry, wet, slush and snow conditions you may encounter before the end of winter. Especially in emergency situations, you’ll find that your vehicle will probably understeer in one condition and oversteer in another. By installing four winter tires, you maintain the most balanced and controlled handling possible in all winter driving conditions.

Should you use the same sized tires as you do for your summer or all-season tires? Actually no, as a wide and low-profile tire has to “plow” a wider path through snow which causes more resistance. The narrower the tire, the easier you can get through snow. So, if you have the option of going with a narrower/taller tire, this would be preferred.

As they say, until next time, keep the shiny side up and the (winter) rubber side down.

Jeremy Williams is the Oregon PCA Technical editor. He co-owns Matrix Integrated Inc. (Matrix Integrated Inc.) with his brother Justin. Jeremy can be reached at techeditor@oregonpca.org

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Radiator Fans: Are You Boarding Porsche Airlines?

In this hot summer weather, have you been hearing a jet engine sound from the front of your watercooled Porsche?
Does the sound continue even after you have shut the engine off?
If so, you may have a failed radiator fan. Due to how low Porsche’s are to the ground, and with their massively open bumper intake ducts, it is not uncommon to have a fair amount of road debris like leaves, twigs, even sizable rocks, in these ducts. What happens once enough of this debris piles up, is that the debris blocks the fresh airflow to your front radiators (most watercooled Porsche’s have 3 radiators up front; a center, a left, and a right). This in turn can cause the engine’s coolant temperature to overheat, causing the radiator fans to work much harder, often fatiguing their motors sooner than later. Once one of your side (left or right) radiator fans fail, then the engine management computer module sees that the coolant temperature is increasing beyond its engineered parameters, so the opposite side radiator fan increases to a much faster speed to try to overcompensate and cool the engine temp down; this is the jet engine sound you may hear from the front of your Porsche.

One way to prevent this from happening is to make sure you’re having your Porsche maintained on a regular interval (every 12-20k depending on model year), as one of the items on Porsche’s inspection list is to clear any blockages from the radiators and air intakes. Without blockages, your Porsche will run cooler and more efficiently, and in general be a jollier Porsche.
Happy Porsche motoring!

As always, let us know if you have any specific questions, and/or a topic suggestion for a future technical blog submission.

Jeremy Williams is the Oregon PCA Technical editor. He co-owns Matrix Integrated Inc. (Matrix Integrated Inc.) with his brother Justin. Jeremy can be reached at techeditor@oregonpca.org


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What is That Debris in my 986/996 Oil Filter?

Do you own a ’97-04 Boxster (986 chassis) or a ’99-04 911 (996 chassis)?
Do you or your mechanic cut open your oil filter during oil changes, and spread the filter media out to check for debris? If not, you should! If you already do, then you may already know that there’s a higher likelihood of the debris you’re seeing is either IMS bearing material (shiny silver), timing chain material (shiny silver), or plastic timing chain ramp material (dark brown or black).
This oil filter media inspection is something both of our shop locations perform during 986/996 oil changes, because it’s a straightforward way to be alerted to an engine component starting to fail.
Here are two pictures of the worst M96 oil filter debris we’ve ever seen:
IMG_7184 IMG_7182

Note that both metallic (IMS bearing and/or timing chain) material, and plastic timing chain ramp material are easily visible throughout the filter media.
Unfortunately, this client had purchased the vehicle sight unseen, and without a pre-purchase inspection. Since this engine could be hiding too many unknowns deep inside and thus possibly too costly to try to salvage, this client decided that an engine replacement would be their next step.
Here is a picture of an M96 filter with much more debris than we’re comfortable seeing:
IMG_6822

Here is a picture of what we more commonly see in an M96 oil filter:
DSCN2470

The two upper longer metallic pieces are starting to get larger in size than we’re normally seeing or feel comfortable seeing. The very small round metallic flake is pretty consistent with other M96’s.
While we’d like to see no metal debris whatsoever, even on non-Porsche (i.e. BMW) engines, it’s not uncommon to see very small flakes of shiny metallic debris here and there.
All in all, if you own an M96 engine, we would highly recommend that you make it standard practice to cut open and thoroughly check the oil filter media for any abnormal debris. If you find numerous or sizable pieces of debris, consult a professional Porsche specialty shop for further advice.

In a future tech blog post, I will show different stages of plastic timing chain ramp failure and what that means for your engine.

As always, let us know if you have any specific questions, and/or a topic suggestion for a future technical blog submission.

Jeremy Williams is the Oregon PCA Technical editor. He co-owns Matrix Integrated Inc. (Matrix Integrated Inc.) with his brother Justin. Jeremy can be reached at techeditor@oregonpca.org


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