Winter Tires Are For Which Season?

We’re well into spring now, but out of convenience, are you still driving around on your “winter” tires? There are numerous reasons why this is more dangerous than you might think, and why you should immediately have them swapped for your non-winter tires.

Open Road Auto Group put together an informative article on this subject. A few key notes:

#1 Winter tires have been specifically engineered to have much softer tread compound than all-season (think 3-season, not true all/4-season) or summer tires do. The softer compound is definitely what you want in cold winter temps in order to grip the elements (snow and ice) and road surface. However, once ambient temperatures warm up above the mid 40 degrees F or so, your winter tires are no longer superior in gripping [warmer] asphalt.

#2 A softer compound is well, softer, resulting in quicker wear/degradation than an all-season tire. This reduces the value of your second tire investment as your winter tires simply won’t last as long the more you drive on them in non-winter conditions.

#3 A softer compound results in longer braking distances in warmer weather. Your softer compound is more pliable and flexible, and while you’d at first think that a softer (i.e. grippier) tire would grip the non-winter pavement better than not, the issue revolves around too much heat buildup in non-winter conditions. This increase in friction/heat buildup causes the tire tread to become too greasy/slippery, and thus not as effective at slowing your vehicle down in non-winter conditions.

Consumer Reports ran a study in 2012 and found that a winter-rated tire in spring/summer conditions needed 1.5 to 2 more car lengths to stop! Continental’s summer testing showed that in braking distance tests from 60 mph, a summer tire-equipped vehicle stopped in about 118 feet, while a winter tire-equipped vehicle stopped in about 138 feet. The hotter the ambient temps, the longer the stopping distances will be with winter tires.

#4 A softer compound results in less precise handling in warmer weather, since the tire can roll on itself more than a stiffer tire can. Refer back to the greasiness in #3, and this provides less confidence-inspiring whether you’re on a curvy road or rolling down the freeway and suddenly need to avoid debris in your lane! Continental Tires found in their testing that a winter rated tire in spring or summer conditions resulted in about 15% less steering precision.

#5 A softer compound will create more resistance with the ground/pavement/asphalt/tarmac, thus resulting in reduced fuel mileage (MPG’s). One source states that winter tires have about 15% more rolling resistance than summer tires. Depending on the amount of miles you drive, this could add up to significant dollars and cents.

What does all of this information equate to? Quite simply, it’s highly recommended to use your winter rated tires for their intended purpose; WINTER!

Please feel welcome to post here with any questions.

Jeremy Williams is the Oregon PCA Technical Editor. He co-owns Matrix Integrated Inc. (Matrix Integrated Inc.) with his brother Justin. Jeremy can be reached at

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Here’s how the 2020 Porsche Taycan is made

The Taycan is Porsche’s first production electric car, and while the underlying technology may be different from the Porsches that came before, the Taycan is still assembled in a factory just like any other car.

This detailed look (it’s nearly 30 minutes of raw footage) at the Taycan assembly line in Zuffenhausen, Germany, shows that, while some steps in the process are different, the Taycan is put together in much the same way as Porsche’s existing gasoline cars.

As with those gas cars, components are pieced together into subassemblies before being added to the chassis as it travels down the line. Except instead of flat-4, flat-6 and V-8 engines, workers are wrangling electric motors and battery packs. That means there are fewer overall parts involved, but also added steps to connect high-voltage wiring along the way.

Mechanical components–in this case the electric motors, battery pack, charging equipment, and suspension–are married to the body about halfway through the assembly process. It’s very similar to the way Porsche parent Volkswagen assembles cars based on its MQB platform, showing that the manufacturing efficiencies of modular platforms like MQB can carry over to electric cars.

Other steps of the process are virtually indistinguishable from the assembly process for gasoline cars. Taycan body shells are painted by robots and inspected by humans. Dashboards and seats are fitted. The powertrain is tested on a dynamometer.

Porsche is currently producing three Taycan variants: 4S, Turbo, and Turbo S. With a $105,150 starting price, the 4S is the de facto base model. Given Porsche’s traditional product cadence, a less-expensive model will likely be added below the 4S down the road.

Also keeping with tradition, the Turbo S is faster than the Turbo and 4S. The range-topping model boasts 750 horsepower and 774 pound-feet of torque with Launch Control, allowing for 0 to 60 mph in 2.6 seconds, according to Porsche.

While both the Turbo and Turbo S (along with long-range versions of the 4S), use the same 93.4-kilowatt-hour battery pack, the Turbo has a range advantage. EPA range ratings are 201 miles and 192 miles for the Turbo and Turbo S, respectively. The EPA hasn’t rated the 4S yet.

The Taycan will share its platform with at least two more electric cars. These will be production versions of the Audi E-Tron GT and Porsche Mission E Cross Turismo concepts. Porsche has also said that it will introduce an electric version of the Macan.

Please feel welcome to post here with any questions.

Jeremy Williams is the Oregon PCA Technical editor. He co-owns Matrix Integrated Inc. (Matrix Integrated Inc.) with his brother Justin. Jeremy can be reached at

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Adding Corn Fuel To Your Porsche?

A few vintage aircooled clients asked me what I thought about them filling their fuel tanks full of ethanol fuel (E10) before they put their cars away for winter hibernation. Another tech article is born!

As you might know, it’s challenging to find anything other than ethanol-laden fuel at the gas pump anymore. Most gas stations in Oregon, and across America, are selling E10 (10% ethanol, 90% “pure gas”), some might be selling E15 (15% ethanol, 85% “pure gas”). This is due to regulations from the federal government stating that the United States needs to ramp up to 36 billion gallons of alternative fuel use by 2022. Compare that to the U.S. having only used 11 billion gallons in 2010! So, we’re only going to see a lot more ethanol fuel.

Well what’s wrong with ethanol fuel, especially if the U.S. government is pushing it? Without getting into the politics of the fuel(oil/gas) and farming lobbies, ethanol fuel can wreak havoc with the components on/in classic and vintage vehicles (vehicles older than ~1986). More modern vehicles were produced with components which are much more ethanol-tolerant. Here are some ethanol fuel pros and cons thanks to;

Pros of ethanol-supplemented fuel:

  • Ethanol is clean-burning and is a higher-octane fuel than conventional gas.
  • Ethanol is produced from renewable sources.
  • Ethanol-powered vehicles produce lower carbon monoxide and carbon dioxide emissions, and lower levels of hydrocarbon and nitrogen oxide emissions.
  • Ethanol production keeps American farmers in business and creates new farming and ethanol-processing jobs.
  • Because ethanol is produced domestically, it reduces U.S. dependence on foreign oil and increases the nation’s energy independence.
  • Ethanol needs fewer fossil (coal) and petroleum (gas) fuels to produce more BTU of energy than gasoline (although it does require much more water).

Cons of ethanol-supplemented fuel:

  • Ethanol creates 34 percent less energy than unadulterated gasoline per gallon. This equals a loss in fuel economy of up to 3 miles per gallon for E10 fuels. In terms of heat, ethanol produces 76,330 BTU per gallon, whereas diesel fuel produces 128,450 BTU per gallon, gasoline 116,090 BTU per gallon and LP gas 84,950 BTU per gallon. The fuel economy gets even worse with E85, a loss of 7 to 8 miles per gallon with its higher ethanol content. Consumer Reports, testing in 2006, verified a loss in fuel economy of up to 30 percent in a Chevy Tahoe designed to run on flex fuel when it was tested with both unleaded gas and E85. Poor fuel economy can also be attributed to improper fuel system calibration based on computer feedback from oxygen sensors because of the temperatures needed to burn ethanol.
  • Virtually any grain considered feedstock can be used to make ethanol, but some grains are better for producing ethanol than others. Corn happens to be one of the worst grains for making ethanol but we produce so much more of it than any other grain that it was the ingredient of choice for U.S. ethanol producers. In South America, ethanol is produced from sugar cane, which is easier to refine and gives a higher yield per acre than corn (1,200 gallons per acre vs. 300 gallons per acre of corn). The U.S. government did impose a 55 cents per gallon tariff to prevent the import of sugar cane-based ethanol into the United States, though that tariff has recently expired).
  • Ethanol is hygroscopic, which means it absorbs water more easily than gasoline. That leads to water condensation inside fuel tanks, carburetor fuel bowls and fuel lines where air spaces are present. Water content in fuel will also swell up the paper filter media inside fuel filters not specifically designed for flex fuels and can thus restrict fuel flow at the filter.
  • Ethanol also erodes fiberglass tanks, rubber hoses and plastic fuel lines. It contributes to rust in fuel systems by creating condensation in the unfilled portion of gas tanks. It will also dissolve varnish and rust in steel fuel components. These dissolved ingredients sit in the bottom of gas tanks until they are removed or they will enter the fuel system if the fuel level in the tank gets too low.

So, what are some steps you can take to diminish the damage from ethanol use in your classic/vintage Porsche? The easiest one is to fill only with 100% pure gas, gas without any ethanol in it. 100% pure gas will be considerably more expensive than the 91/92 octane (Premium/Supreme) E10 found at most gas stations, but if you don’t put many miles on your vintage Porsche each year, the annual cost for pure gas might be a minimal increase. Here is a listing of most of the gas stations in Oregon selling 100% pure gas; also has some recommendations for upgrades you can make to your classic/vintage vehicle. Many come from OEM marine manufacturers who’ve been dealing with ethanol-related fuel issues for awhile now:

  • Replace any plastic or rubber fuel lines with ethanol-resistant hose or nylon tubing.
  • Install a water separator filter in the fuel line leading to the carburetor. Water collects in the filter and can be removed periodically.
  • Replace any fiberglass tanks with steel or aluminum.
  • Ensure that any O-rings in the fuel system are also ethanol-compatible.
  • Keep your tank as full as possible to prevent air space where condensation can form.
  • Use specific ethanol-compatible fuel storage additives. These are normally blue in color. Regular fuel stabilizers will not work unless they are labeled ethanol fuel-compatible.
  • Shop around for a marina or service station that does not pump E10 or E85. None of these stations will be affiliated with a major gasoline producer, but there are still some out there, especially in areas around lakes and rivers where boating is popular. You can find a “pure gas” map of many of these stations online at the Historic Vehicle Association website
  • Vent your fuel system during storage for extended periods; the moisture your fuel system might absorb from the outside will be less than the moisture created in the air space inside.
  • Use a fogging solution in your carburetor during storage to prevent condensation from collecting in fuel bowls.
  • Use of isopropyl alcohol-based dry gas will help to absorb system moisture. Regular dry gas is ethanol-based and will only make the problem worse. Isopropyl-based additives actually combine with the water molecules and removing moisture through the combustion chamber.
  • Use of a flex fuel-compatible fuel filter where possible will prevent degradation of the paper media in your filter by water in the fuel system.

For those of you with more modern vehicles (~1986+), your vehicle is better prepared to deal with the component effects of ethanol. That being said, still be aware of the MPG losses and hygroscopicity from ethanol fuel, so that you can maximize your investment.

Whichever direction you decide to go regarding ethanol-laden gas or 100% pure gas, just make sure to get out and enjoy your Porsche!Please feel welcome to post here with any questions.

Jeremy Williams is the Oregon PCA Technical editor. He co-owns Matrix Integrated Inc. (Matrix Integrated Inc.) with his brother Justin. Jeremy can be reached at

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To PCCB or not?

Recently there was an industry article about Porsche’s PCCB (Porsche Ceramic Composite Brake; signified by their yellow calipers) and whether they were the best brakes to use for track days (including high performance driver education, autocross, etc) or those who are heavy-footed on the “slow” pedal. Porsche Australia’s technical representative Paul Watson reported that iron brake discs are recommended over carbon discs for those who are heavy on the brakes or tracking their vehicle. Why? The issue revolves around heat; heat can quickly degrade the carbon fibers in the PCCB discs. The harder you are on the brake pedal, the more friction(heat) builds up, taxing the carbon rotors quicker than iron/steel rotors would be taxed in the same braking scenario.

You might remember long ago that Porsche had stated that PCCB’s could last the lifetime of the vehicle. This could be true for the owner who has the vehicle sitting in a collection and rarely drives it, or who drives light-footed on the brakes. But for spirited drivers and those hard on the brake pedal including during any “track” exercises, PCCB’s may wear out sooner than you anticipated. With replacement costs in the $20k+ range for front and rear, it might make you re-think adorning the sexy PCCB’s on your next Porsche.

So who are PCCB’s probably the best for?

-All-out racecars where the driver wants the lightest unsprung weight for best acceleration and deceleration (calculated in milliseconds), and have the budget for changing out worn brake parts often.

-Those who are light on the brakes and want the unique look of carbon-ceramic rotors and yellow calipers.

-Those who are OCD about keeping their vehicle as clean as possible, as carbon brakes significantly reduce the amount of brake dust accumulating on the wheels/vehicle (although it is important to note that there are ceramic brake pads available for vehicles with iron discs who want to reduce brake dust, but keep in mind ceramic pads typically require a bit more pedal effort to be applied than semi-metallic brake pads do).

Please feel welcome to post here with any questions.

Jeremy Williams is the Oregon PCA Technical editor. He co-owns Matrix Integrated Inc. (Matrix Integrated Inc.) with his brother Justin. Jeremy can be reached at

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Porsche Traction in the Winter

Are you daily driving your Porsche sportscar with summer tires in these winter months? Wanting to take it up to the mountain for winter activities, but hesitant to do so because it’s rear-wheel drive (RWD) vs all-wheel drive (AWD)? Or are you driving your AWD Cayenne or Macan up to the mountain with summer tires, confident that AWD will get you through whatever Mother Nature throws your way? Here’s a fantastic video about why winter tires are extremely important in the winter months, on RWD (or FWD) or even AWD vehicles! I think you may be a bit surprised as to what your vehicle is capable of with the proper tires:

Please feel welcome to post here with any questions.

Jeremy Williams is the Oregon PCA Technical editor. He co-owns Matrix Integrated Inc. (Matrix Integrated Inc.) with his brother Justin. Jeremy can be reached at

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Wind Buffeting – What is it? How Can I Alleviate it?

Have you ever heard the term “wind buffeting” and wondered what the heck it is? No, it’s not a new buffet restaurant at an Oregon Coast casino.

You’ve most likely experienced it already, but maybe weren’t sure what the phenomenon was called. Remember the times when you’ve been driving near or above freeway speeds with one window down, and you experience that sound and pressure which makes your head feel like it’s about to implode, and the quickest remedy is to roll another window down? That’s wind buffeting, which is described as the turbulent wind pressure experienced while driving at speed. If you’re a motorcyclist you might be familiar with it too; a result of the wind coming around a windshield or a fairing, causing your helmet to shake.

Wind buffeting is an issue on most vehicles, some worse than others. The new generations of Porsche Boxster, Cayman, and 911 are especially prone to this phenomenon. But there is help, beyond driving with both windows up, or both windows down. The folks at AWE Tuning in Pennsylvania are one such company who have created an elegant sort of mirror spoiler, called a Foiler Wind Diffuser, which eliminates wind buffeting on Porsche’s like the 2013+ “981” Boxster’s and Cayman’s, 2017+ 718’s, and 2013+ “991” 911’s.

Do you have an older Porsche model or another vehicle where wind buffeting is causing you a headache, yet there is no solution on the market? Crafty with wood, or familiar with one of the local plastic shops like TAP Plastics? Create your own using this style, and wave goodbye to wind buffeting, while letting the wind blow through your hair (unless you’re bald like me).

Please feel welcome to post here with any questions.

Jeremy Williams is the Oregon PCA Technical editor. He co-owns Matrix Integrated Inc. (Matrix Integrated Inc.) with his brother Justin. Jeremy can be reached at

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What the Heck is a PPI (Pre-Purchase Inspection)?

I’ve been hearing a lot of questions between members at ORPCA events, socials, auto-x, etc, about what to look for in this Porsche or that Porsche. Some have asked if they should spend the money to have a vehicle inspected before purchasing. So, let’s talk PPI’s (Pre-Purchase Inspections).

We all know that a Porsche is more than a vehicle, it’s an investment! And just like when buying a home, it’s highly recommended that you have a trained professional inspect the vehicle for any outstanding issues, deferred maintenance, or signs of tomfoolery. While I won’t cover every detail of a PPI, a general scope here will give you a solid idea as to the minimum of what you should expect to have covered:
— The Porsche specialist should drive the vehicle to check for any oddities during the road test (engine, transmission, brakes, wheel balance, alignment, etc.)
— With the vehicle on a lift, the technician should check for any fluid leaks (oil, gear/transmission, coolant if not aircooled, brake, power steering, etc.)
— Check for the conditions of fluids wherever possible
— Check for rubber related issues, often due to age; belts, mounts, seals, gaskets, boots, bushings, tire tread depth/condition/wear pattern/manufacture date
— Check outer brake pad depths at the minimum
— Check/test battery and charging system (i.e. alternator/generator)
— Check for any obvious signs of paint and/or body work
— Check other systems like lights, wipers, HVAC, radio, etc.
— Check electronic fault codes on ‘95+ vehicles (also check for signs of mechanical overrevs on 996/997’s, as well as camshaft deviation % on 986/996/997 due to a possible timing chain system issues)
— Compression test at the minimum on aircooled Porsches
— Check for any notorious and well-known issues specific to the exact model (this could even include cutting open the oil filter on an M96-engine’d 986/996/997 to check for metal and plastic debris from a failing IMS bearing or timing chain guide rails)

If the vehicle is a rare variant or special edition, making sure that the “numbers” (VIN, engine, etc.) match is very worthwhile, especially if you’re looking at spending top dollar for the vehicle.

Information gleaned from the PPI can help you budget for current and future repairs, as well as help you know if the vehicle asking price is fair, inflated, and/or should be adjusted based on PPI findings. After all, this is an investment you’re purchasing.

Please feel welcome to post here with any specific questions.

Jeremy Williams is the Oregon PCA Technical editor. He co-owns Matrix Integrated Inc. (Matrix Integrated Inc.) with his brother Justin. Jeremy can be reached at

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Oil Analysis; Another Diagnostic Tool

Most of us try to take care of our Porsche’s in ways that exceed required maintenance and recommended service. If we are not DIY mechanics, we take our cars to specific Porsche service providers that know our cars and have lots of experience. Those service providers can use a variety of diagnostic tools to advise us of our cars condition. Those diagnostics include; computer scan tools, compression tests, leakdown tests, exhaust analyzers, examining oil filter elements for debris, etc. There is another diagnostic tool that can provide a wealth of information on our engine’s condition; engine oil analysis. Airplane owners, large commercial truck operators and racing engine builders have been using oil analysis for years. As an owner of a Porsche that could develop an IMS bearing problem, I have my oil filter torn apart and examined at every oil change (see Jeremy’s article on this topic). I have recently added oil analysis to my diagnostics. Oil analysis is similar in concept to your family doctor running a blood panel. The blood analysis results are compared to a range of values that are found in healthy humans. Specific results outside of a normal band usually draw attention to an existing or developing problem. Oil analysis does the same thing on a sample of your engine’s oil.

I use Blackstone Labs based in Fort Wayne, Indiana. You can request an oil analysis kit through a phone call or email and they send one (or more) out at no cost. The kit includes a sample bottle, labels, an information sheet and a shipping container.

A sample is taken while changing your oil. The sample should come from the midstream of the draining oil, not the first or the last spurts, but in the middle. The sample is then mailed back to Blackstone in the provided postage prepaid container, along with the information sheet that you fill out. The oil received is then run through a chemical and physical analysis spectrum and compared to the spectrums from similar engines. Besides the results of more than 20 specific elements, Blackstone provides written comments about your oil and engine condition:

This way you know if there’s an internal engine issue taking place. The cost? Only $28!! This has to be one of the best investments that you can make in taking care of your car. If you’re not a DIY person, local Porsche specialty shops can do it for you.

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Part 3 – Hibernating Your Porsche

If you’re going to be putting away your beloved Porsche for the winter weather, here are some areas to think about in regard to vehicle hibernation:

#1 Fluids
Ideally, it’d be best to have the oil/filter changed before you put the vehicle away for hibernation, AND THEN again when it comes out of hibernation in the spring. The reason for this is to get rid of any nasty contaminants/condensation in the oil before they sit in the engine/crankcase for the winter months (these contaminants/condensation could cause some minor engine corrosion), and then by changing at least the oil again in the spring after hibernation (you can probably skip the filter change in the spring since the filter hasn’t been used much save for 1 or 2 starts), you’re getting rid of any possible condensation that may have accumulated over the winter.
However, I understand that this process can be expensive due to the cost of high quality engine oil (either high Zinc content for aircooled’s, or full synthetic for watercooled’s). So, if I was given a choice to change the oil/filter only a SINGLE time, either before or after winter hibernation, it’d really come down to mileage on the current oil/filter. If you have considerable mileage (~1500-4000mi) and especially short trips on the oil/filter as you head into late fall, then I’d recommend changing the oil/filter before the car goes into winter hibernation. If you just recently changed the oil/filter in earlier fall (less than ~1000mi on it), then I’d recommend changing it again when the car comes out of hibernation as any condensation that builds up in the new oil during the winter will get burned off in the spring once you start driving.

What about other fluids like transmission, gear, power steering, clutch, windshield washer, and brake? The only fluid that might gather considerable worrisome condensation over the winter is the brake fluid. The amount of water content in your brake fluid can be checked with a fluid tester, and it should not have more than 2% water content in it. Like with the oil change now or later question, if the brake fluid has 3.5%+ moisture, it’d be best to flush/bleed the brake fluid before going into hibernation. If it has 2-3.5%, then after hibernation may be best.

Be sure to fill your fuel tank all the way to the top. This will save your fuel system from oxidation and will also displace any water that may currently be in the system. Be sure to add the fuel system stabilizer at the same time, following their specific direction.

#2 Pre-storage
The next step is to find a good clean, dry, secure location to store your car. A garage with a concrete pad is ideal. Start by cleaning out the interior of the car. Vacuum, dust, clean…the more spotless your car is, the better it will handle storage. This is essential to preventing mold, mildew and critters from overcoming your precious interior. You might put a bag or two of silica gel, which absorbs any moisture in the air, on the floorboards to keep the interior extra dry.
Once the interior is spotless, you should now focus your attention on the exterior of the car. Start by washing the car from top to bottom. Make sure to really clean the wheels well, as brake dust is very corrosive. However, do not put the vehicle away wet! This is tricky if you try to drive the car right up to that first heavy rainy or snowy day. You should never put your car away wet unless you want to encourage mildew, mold, and/or rust to form everywhere the water collects.

When you wash the car use this opportunity to make sure that all the drains work. It’s not uncommon for drains to clog up during the fall with leaves, debris, etc. There are surprisingly more drains in the car than you think.

After washing and drying the car, if you haven’t detailed your car in a while, give it a proper wax job if it’s not too cold in your garage, as high-quality wax can be difficult to apply when it’s cold out.

#3 Storage
When all maintenance and cleaning items have been covered, you are now ready to position the car for storage.

Persnickety tip; If you really want to go overboard, you can lay down a waterproof plastic drop-sheet where you will be storing the car. Before purchasing the plastic sheet, insure it is large enough to envelop the lower half of your vehicle. Park the car on the plastic drop sheet. The reason you should have a waterproof drop sheet is to prevent fluid transfers in both directions (ie prevent water vapor from rising from below the car, and prevent vehicle fluids from staining the cement storage pad). If you’re storing your vehicle outside, the plastic sheet will also help prevent lazy rodents from finding a nice winter nest up in your cabin filter area, engine bay, or interior. It might also be a good idea to lay a few non-poisonous rodent traps around if your vehicle can be easily accessed from outside, unless you have small children who will want to play with the traps. If you poison the rodents, they may then climb inside the vehicle and perish there, leaving you with a very nasty odor. Rodents are always looking for a cozy winter home and we have seen many client cars who have had nests built in their vehicle or engine bay. Your next step would be to tuck the plastic drop sheet up and around the bottom half of your vehicle. This once again prevents moisture from diffusing from underneath the car.

Once the car is in position, you can place the car on jack stands if you wish. The reasoning for this is two-fold;
1) it takes the strain off suspension components, thus slowing the aging on such components as bushings and shocks
2) it prevents your tires from developing “flat spots”
If you are not sure how to jack up your car, consult the vehicle manual for approved jacking points.

Regardless of jacking the vehicle up, we recommend inflating your tires to the maximum psi listed on the outer sidewall of the tire. Check the pressures, including spare, every few weeks to watch for any slow leaks.

Persnickety tip: Plugging the exhaust tips with steel wool will help prevent rodents and other critters from using your exhaust system as a winter home.

The next area to turn your attention too will be the vehicle’s battery. Most batteries do not winter well at all. All batteries discharge over time so you must ensure that your battery does not discharge too much, otherwise, it will age prematurely. The best solution to this problem is a special type of battery charger called a battery tender or maintainer. We prefer the CTEK brand, which Porsche private labels as their own. These battery-saving “smart” devices “float” a battery charge at a specific voltage vs constantly charging the battery blindly which can ruin it. $75 for a battery maintainer can save you from buying a $150+ battery every couple of years.
When you connect the battery tender to the battery, inspect for any corrosion (whitish crust) on the two battery terminal posts If you have any corrosion, you’ll want to clean it off with a fine brush.

Some of you may be wondering if, every few weeks, you should start your vehicle and allow it to run for a period of time. Starting the vehicle, letting it idle for 10min, and then shutting it off is not recommended. This start/idle/shutdown procedure will not allow the engine to reach optimal operating temperature to burn off contaminants in the system, like driving the vehicle for 30min+ will. Instead, this start/idle/shutdown procedure can create condensation in the system which can cause corrosion, contamination, and other issues.

At this stage, you’re almost done!

The last step will be to cover the car with a car cover if you have one, tucking the plastic sheet into the car cover. The ideal car cover for garage storage will be permeable and somewhat thick. Clearly the car should be covered to keep dust and sunlight from a garage window off of the vehicle. There are a large number of aftermarket car covers available. Don’t get the cheapest cover as it will be protecting your investment!

That’s it, you’re done winterizing your beloved Porsche. After a few months, your car will be ready to run free once again.

Feel free to post here with any specific hibernation questions.
Very happy holidays to you and yours!

Jeremy Williams is the Oregon PCA Technical editor. He co-owns Matrix Integrated Inc. (Matrix Integrated Inc.) with his brother Justin. Jeremy can be reached at

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