Shine on You Crazy Diamond: Porsche Surface Coated Brakes

Shine On You Crazy Diamond

By Jeremy Williams, Technical Editor

“Remember when you were young, you shone like the sun
Shine on you crazy diamond…”

These Pink Floyd lyrics describe a new component technology that Porsche debuted in 2017, which we’re seeing become more and more prevalent on Porsche vehicles today. Referred to as PSCB, Porsche Surface Coated Brakes were released on the 2017 Cayenne Turbo’s as a standard feature.

The PSCB’s are many cuts above the standard Porsche gray-iron brakes in that they typically last about 30% longer than gray-iron, they hardly produce any brake dust, and they don’t rust like gray-iron. At the same time, while they’re ultimately not as race-worthy as PCCB’s (Porsche Ceramic Composite Brakes), they have performance properties similar to PCCB’s, and yet the PSCB’s cost about 1/3 that of PCCB’s. So, in many ways the PSCB’s are the best of both worlds.

The special brake rotors in the PSCB setup are the first to be developed for any vehicle. Their surface is incredibly shiny, akin to a mirror-like finish which doesn’t tarnish and is made of tungsten carbide which is almost as hard as a diamond. WIDIA is an acronym for wie Diamant (the German translation is “like diamond”) and is the trade name for an amazingly hard material which is mainly comprised of tungsten carbide. In close collaboration with Bosch/Buderus, what Porsche developed using this technology as a guide, is quite astonishing.

A brake rotor made 100% of tungsten carbide would cost about 3x that of PCCB’s (which are silly expensive already), so Porsche had to get very creative with the construction of the PSCB rotors; a process that took ages to develop. They start with a gray-iron rotor which is lasered to give structure, then an interlayer of nickel helps bind the gray-iron and tungsten carbide, where the tungsten carbide particles are flame-sprayed onto the rotor at supersonic speeds. This results in a tungsten carbide coating which is about 100 micrometers thick. However, once the rotors were finally created, Porsche wasn’t done. Very special brake pads were also needed to complete the PSCB setup.

Since the brake rotor surface is so smooth, the brake pad compound needed to be engineered with very hard microscopic particles that would anchor in to the also-very hard tungsten carbide rotor coating. One would expect that such a unique brake pad would still produce considerable brake dust as it digs and bites into the brake rotor, however PSCB pads create an astonishing 90% less brake dust than gray-iron pads do. As well, the mirror-like rotor surface which has no grainy structure like a grey-iron rotor, actually allows for complete pad-rotor contact, which means the entire surface area of the rotor can be used for fully optimal braking performance. When the PSCB components get hot from repeated braking exercises, they don’t show signs of brake fade like standard gray-iron components. This places the performance output of PSCB’s close to that of PCCB’s, but remember that the PSCB’s are about 1/3 the price of PCCB’s.

Due to the gigantic reduction in brake dust from the PSCB technology, Porsche cleverly decided to market PSCB applications via a unique color for the 10-piston front calipers and 4-piston rear calipers. While “Big Red” brake calipers have previously signified Porsche’s best brakes, along came yellow calipers to signify the race-worthy PCCB’s. Now, white calipers signify PSCB’s. White brake calipers you ask?! Yes, what better way to communicate that the PSCB’s produce such little brake dust and therefore the calipers stay super clean!

So with PCCB-like performance for significantly less money, and major improvements over standard gray-iron brakes, what are the downsides to PSCB’s? The only one I’ve been able to come up with is regarding those who want to participate in more off-pavement driving with their Cayenne, yet keep in mind that this sticking point isn’t specific to only PSCB’s. As vehicles continue to grow in both size and performance output, larger and larger brake components are needed to help quickly slow these vehicles down. I’m all for the highest margin of safety and performance, so bigger brakes vs smaller brakes are definitely an attribute. However, in order to clear these huge brakes, a large wheel is needed (21″-22″ diameter wheels are the norm now), which means the profile/aspect ratio of the tire is thinner. What does this mean if you’re wanting to take your strong, durable, and more than capable Cayenne off-pavement for everything from reaching a favorite hiking trailhead to more serious overlanding? Thinner profile tires mean more possibility for wheel damage and tire punctures, a rougher ride, and less grip on uneven terrain. And since the brakes are so massive in diameter, you cannot easily reduce wheel diameter in order to inversely increase the tire’s sidewall height, you’re pretty much stuck with more fragile tires for off-pavement adventures. A possible solution? Hop in an older ’05-16 955/957/early958-generation Cayenne with its 18″ or 19″ wheels and taller tires, as this will also help you appreciate the numerous refinements of your ’17-18 late958-generation or ’19+ 9Y0/9Y3-generation Cayenne that much more!

Jeremy Williams is the Oregon PCA Technical Editor. He co-owns Matrix Integrated (Matrix Integrated Inc.) with his brother Justin. Jeremy can be reached at [email protected]

*Special thanks to SSF for much of the PSCB information.


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Have You Seen My Keys?

Have You Seen My Keys?

As we all get older, we’re probably often asking this question of our spouses, our partners, our kids, our pets, maybe even ourselves (it’s still ok to talk to yourself!). But in this tech article I’m not talking about car keys. Instead, I’m discussing your wheel lock key.

Wheel locks and a coordinating wheel lock key?  I have those?  Most likely you do, all depending on how your vehicle came equipped from the Porsche factory. Instead of having all of the lug bolts (which attach your wheels to your brake rotor/hub) fit into a 19mm socket, you may have one toothed-looking convex “wheel lug” per wheel, called a locking wheel lug, or wheel lock for short. Think of the wheel lock key as a sort of adapter, inversely concave in style, that fits onto this unique locking wheel lug, preventing someone from more easily stealing your wheels by using only a 19mm socket/wrench.

More important than knowing that you might have wheel locks on your wheels, is knowing if your vehicle actually has a wheel lock key, that it actually fits your wheels, and where your wheel lock key is located/hidden.

Far too many times we’ve seen vehicles come into our shops for repairs or maintenance which require the wheels/tires to be removed from the vehicle, only to find the wheel lock key missing from the vehicle. Where should it be located? It should be in the factory tool kit (either in frunk or trunk), along with your tire iron (i.e. lug wrench), jack, tow hook, etc. For those who don’t have a full size spare wheel/tire, and instead only have a can of fix-a-flat tire goo, might you still have a wheel lock key? Indeed, for after your vehicle is flat-bedded to a tire shop and/or repair/service facility, the shop will need to remove your wheel/tire in order to patch your tire or replace your tire(s) with new.

What happens if you don’t have the needed wheel lock key, or might have lost it? You might be up a certain creek without a paddle if you know what I mean. The tire shop would have to carefully drill out the existing wheel lock key, then install a regular lug bolt (if they happen to have one!) to get you back on your way, until you can order another set of 4 wheel locks and coordinating wheel lock key from Porsche. If you do have a wheel lock key, ensure that it’s placed back into its proper storage location after use.

Note there are a myriad of different types of wheel lock keys, all with unique splines. This is to help limit the possibility of a wheel thief having the specific wheel lock key for your vehicle. Most Porsche dealerships and repair facilities will have at least some master wheel lock key sets in case your vehicle doesn’t have the wheel lock key, but this is not always a safeguard, so don’t count on this! At least one of our ORPCA members recently found this out the hard way. They went to a regional Porsche dealership for a second set of winter wheels/tires, only to find out they didn’t have their wheel lock key in their newer Cayenne, that the wheel locks had been superseded and were no longer in use, such that even the dealership didn’t have the correct wheel lock key for removing the wheels/tires from the vehicle! So the dealership had to drill out the wheel lock keys, and install a newly updated set of 4; not an inexpensive endeavor. For this reason, it’s advisable to check that you have your wheel lock key and not count on your service center to have it for you.


If you don’t have your wheel lock key, and the dealership can match up which key you need using their master sets (i.e. key #45), a new wheel lock key can be ordered for you. For security reasons, it is not possible to know which wheel lock key number your vehicle takes by using the VIN #, data card, build sheet, CoA, etc. You’d need to physically match up a possible wheel lock key to your vehicle’s wheel locks, using a master set.

Drive safe, have fun, and happy Porsche’ing!

Please feel welcome to ask any questions, and/or make any suggestions for future tech articles.

Jeremy Williams is the Oregon PCA Technical Editor. He co-owns Matrix Integrated ( with his brother Justin. Jeremy can be reached at [email protected]

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Oil Leaks into The Great Abyss

Oil leaks on an air-cooled Porsche.

ORPCA was presented with a recent technical question: “I just had my Porsche in for servicing and was told my engine is leaking oil. But I’m not seeing any spots on the ground. Can you explain?”

Depending on the Porsche model, the origin of an oil leak, as well as its severity, we find that oil can travel many different paths towards the ground, but never actually hit the ground. As you can imagine, the higher the oil leak origin (ie top of engine bay vs bottom of engine bay), the more components a leak can drip onto as the leaking oil travels towards the ground. As well, once the oil leak drips onto a component, the path of the oil leak can then change, diverting the oil to a different area, away from the source of the leak. This can potentially make diagnosing some oil trails challenging, especially if the leaks are traveling down into the “great abyss.” What also makes tracing oil leaks challenging is when the leaks have been occurring for so long that oil has spread all over the bottom of the engine, transmission, and rearward. At times like this, the oil mess will need to be fully cleaned off, the engine heat cycled (and/or vehicle driven), then the source of the oil leak can be further investigated and pinpointed.

Newer water-cooled Porsches, especially a Panamera, Macan, or Cayenne, have plastic bellypans underneath the front-mounted engine as an aerodynamic aid and VERY minor protection from road grime/weather/debris. These bellypans will often catch most or all of the oil leaks and drips, unless the engine is gushing engine oil and overflows off of the bellypan. Therefore, you may never see a single drop of oil touch your garage floor. The only warning sign of an oil leak might be either oil consumption during your oil change period (i.e. having to add oil in between oil changes), and/or the smell of burning oil.

Burning oil brings up an important safety warning. What happens when hot oil contacts a hot exhaust component? Not a whole lot of good, that’s for sure. Is it possible for an oil leak to cause a fire? You betcha! This is certainly one of the worst-case scenarios for oil leaks, along with internal engine damage if the engine were to run out of oil. What other repercussions can occur from oil leaks? As mentioned above, when oil leaks onto other components, especially rubber components, it can cause the rubber to swell.  The rubber becomes squishy, and the rubber component degrades quicker. That means more repair costs. Speaking of increased costs, oil leaking onto the ground is simply money leaking out of your pocket, as you have to top up the engine oil level more often. In relation environmental impact, once the rains come, any oil leaking onto the ground will eventually make its way into the groundwater and/or sewer drains, leaching into streams and rivers.

Oil Drips.

What are the common oil leaks for some of the Porsche models? Working our way from newer to older models, both the Macan and Cayenne V6 are suffering from timing cover leaks. The front timing cover bolts are over-torqued at the factory, the bolts break off, then the covers leak. Below is a snapshot of the fun we’re having with one of these repairs right now.

Cayenne V6 timing cover leak repair.

We have found the 997.2 and 991-series 911s to be fairly dry thus far.

The 986 Boxsters and 996-series 911s have the infamous IMS (intermediate shaft) plate and/or RMS (rear main seal) leaks; see below for pictures of both of these issues. Also, we have seen issues with oil filler tubes, spark plug tube seals, valve adjuster solenoids, and occasionally a valve cover.

993 and 964 911s are similar in many respects as they share a similar design. Valve covers, timing covers, chain case gaskets, power steering pump drive seals are all issues that tend to occur at much lower mileage, because Porsche started to use rubber seals on a lot of these parts vs. regular “old” gaskets like on the earlier cars.

Common oil leaks on the early (pre-964) 911s include timing chain covers, valve cover gaskets, rear main seals, camshaft oil hoses, chain case gaskets, oil pressure switches, oil thermostat o-rings, and oil return tubes. On higher-mileage engines we start to see seepage from cylinder base gaskets, crankcase through-bolt o-rings. and even warped case halves on pre-‘78 air-cooled engines. Another couple of leak areas on early cars are the rear crank pulley seal and intermediate plate cover o-rings and gaskets.

Notice I mentioned the term “seepage” above. What is meant by oil seep versus oil leak? An “oil seep” would be considered a haze of moisture, more of a satin finish. No glossy finish, and no actual drips forming, thus a seep will never leave fluid on the ground, or transfer down to another component. A seep would transform into an “oil leak” when the fluid appears glossy, and/or it’s actively forming drips, which can make their way to the ground or onto other components. Compare these two pictures below;

Shows the IMS plate with an oil leak due to the glossy texture.

Shows the RMS with an oil seep, and the IMS plate is graduating from a seep to a leak.

Engine oil is the lifeblood of your engine. Just as if you had a cut on your body and were bleeding, you’d stop the bleeding, right? If you’re experiencing an oil leak, don’t let your wonderful Porsche bleed engine oil for an extended period of time; get it remedied promptly. Your Porsche will love you for it, as will the fish in our streams.

Note; we’re in eager anticipation to see if the Taycan exhibits any oil leaks from its engine. We might be waiting awhile. 😉

Please feel welcome to ask any questions.

Jeremy Williams is the Oregon PCA Technical Editor. He co-owns Matrix Integrated ( with his brother Justin. Jeremy can be reached at [email protected]

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Winter Tires Are For Which Season?

We’re well into spring now, but out of convenience, are you still driving around on your “winter” tires? There are numerous reasons why this is more dangerous than you might think, and why you should immediately have them swapped for your non-winter tires.

Open Road Auto Group put together an informative article on this subject. A few key notes:

#1 Winter tires have been specifically engineered to have much softer tread compound than all-season (think 3-season, not true all/4-season) or summer tires do. The softer compound is definitely what you want in cold winter temps in order to grip the elements (snow and ice) and road surface. However, once ambient temperatures warm up above the mid 40 degrees F or so, your winter tires are no longer superior in gripping [warmer] asphalt.

#2 A softer compound is well, softer, resulting in quicker wear/degradation than an all-season tire. This reduces the value of your second tire investment as your winter tires simply won’t last as long the more you drive on them in non-winter conditions.

#3 A softer compound results in longer braking distances in warmer weather. Your softer compound is more pliable and flexible, and while you’d at first think that a softer (i.e. grippier) tire would grip the non-winter pavement better than not, the issue revolves around too much heat buildup in non-winter conditions. This increase in friction/heat buildup causes the tire tread to become too greasy/slippery, and thus not as effective at slowing your vehicle down in non-winter conditions.

Consumer Reports ran a study in 2012 and found that a winter-rated tire in spring/summer conditions needed 1.5 to 2 more car lengths to stop! Continental’s summer testing showed that in braking distance tests from 60 mph, a summer tire-equipped vehicle stopped in about 118 feet, while a winter tire-equipped vehicle stopped in about 138 feet. The hotter the ambient temps, the longer the stopping distances will be with winter tires.

#4 A softer compound results in less precise handling in warmer weather, since the tire can roll on itself more than a stiffer tire can. Refer back to the greasiness in #3, and this provides less confidence-inspiring whether you’re on a curvy road or rolling down the freeway and suddenly need to avoid debris in your lane! Continental Tires found in their testing that a winter rated tire in spring or summer conditions resulted in about 15% less steering precision.

#5 A softer compound will create more resistance with the ground/pavement/asphalt/tarmac, thus resulting in reduced fuel mileage (MPG’s). One source states that winter tires have about 15% more rolling resistance than summer tires. Depending on the amount of miles you drive, this could add up to significant dollars and cents.

What does all of this information equate to? Quite simply, it’s highly recommended to use your winter rated tires for their intended purpose; WINTER!

Please feel welcome to post here with any questions.

Jeremy Williams is the Oregon PCA Technical Editor. He co-owns Matrix Integrated Inc. (Matrix Integrated Inc.) with his brother Justin. Jeremy can be reached at [email protected]

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Here’s how the 2020 Porsche Taycan is made

The Taycan is Porsche’s first production electric car, and while the underlying technology may be different from the Porsches that came before, the Taycan is still assembled in a factory just like any other car.

This detailed look (it’s nearly 30 minutes of raw footage) at the Taycan assembly line in Zuffenhausen, Germany, shows that, while some steps in the process are different, the Taycan is put together in much the same way as Porsche’s existing gasoline cars.

As with those gas cars, components are pieced together into subassemblies before being added to the chassis as it travels down the line. Except instead of flat-4, flat-6 and V-8 engines, workers are wrangling electric motors and battery packs. That means there are fewer overall parts involved, but also added steps to connect high-voltage wiring along the way.

Mechanical components–in this case the electric motors, battery pack, charging equipment, and suspension–are married to the body about halfway through the assembly process. It’s very similar to the way Porsche parent Volkswagen assembles cars based on its MQB platform, showing that the manufacturing efficiencies of modular platforms like MQB can carry over to electric cars.

Other steps of the process are virtually indistinguishable from the assembly process for gasoline cars. Taycan body shells are painted by robots and inspected by humans. Dashboards and seats are fitted. The powertrain is tested on a dynamometer.

Porsche is currently producing three Taycan variants: 4S, Turbo, and Turbo S. With a $105,150 starting price, the 4S is the de facto base model. Given Porsche’s traditional product cadence, a less-expensive model will likely be added below the 4S down the road.

Also keeping with tradition, the Turbo S is faster than the Turbo and 4S. The range-topping model boasts 750 horsepower and 774 pound-feet of torque with Launch Control, allowing for 0 to 60 mph in 2.6 seconds, according to Porsche.

While both the Turbo and Turbo S (along with long-range versions of the 4S), use the same 93.4-kilowatt-hour battery pack, the Turbo has a range advantage. EPA range ratings are 201 miles and 192 miles for the Turbo and Turbo S, respectively. The EPA hasn’t rated the 4S yet.

The Taycan will share its platform with at least two more electric cars. These will be production versions of the Audi E-Tron GT and Porsche Mission E Cross Turismo concepts. Porsche has also said that it will introduce an electric version of the Macan.

Please feel welcome to post here with any questions.

Jeremy Williams is the Oregon PCA Technical editor. He co-owns Matrix Integrated Inc. (Matrix Integrated Inc.) with his brother Justin. Jeremy can be reached at [email protected]

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Adding Corn Fuel To Your Porsche?

A few vintage aircooled clients asked me what I thought about them filling their fuel tanks full of ethanol fuel (E10) before they put their cars away for winter hibernation. Another tech article is born!

As you might know, it’s challenging to find anything other than ethanol-laden fuel at the gas pump anymore. Most gas stations in Oregon, and across America, are selling E10 (10% ethanol, 90% “pure gas”), some might be selling E15 (15% ethanol, 85% “pure gas”). This is due to regulations from the federal government stating that the United States needs to ramp up to 36 billion gallons of alternative fuel use by 2022. Compare that to the U.S. having only used 11 billion gallons in 2010! So, we’re only going to see a lot more ethanol fuel.

Well what’s wrong with ethanol fuel, especially if the U.S. government is pushing it? Without getting into the politics of the fuel(oil/gas) and farming lobbies, ethanol fuel can wreak havoc with the components on/in classic and vintage vehicles (vehicles older than ~1986). More modern vehicles were produced with components which are much more ethanol-tolerant. Here are some ethanol fuel pros and cons thanks to;

Pros of ethanol-supplemented fuel:

  • Ethanol is clean-burning and is a higher-octane fuel than conventional gas.
  • Ethanol is produced from renewable sources.
  • Ethanol-powered vehicles produce lower carbon monoxide and carbon dioxide emissions, and lower levels of hydrocarbon and nitrogen oxide emissions.
  • Ethanol production keeps American farmers in business and creates new farming and ethanol-processing jobs.
  • Because ethanol is produced domestically, it reduces U.S. dependence on foreign oil and increases the nation’s energy independence.
  • Ethanol needs fewer fossil (coal) and petroleum (gas) fuels to produce more BTU of energy than gasoline (although it does require much more water).

Cons of ethanol-supplemented fuel:

  • Ethanol creates 34 percent less energy than unadulterated gasoline per gallon. This equals a loss in fuel economy of up to 3 miles per gallon for E10 fuels. In terms of heat, ethanol produces 76,330 BTU per gallon, whereas diesel fuel produces 128,450 BTU per gallon, gasoline 116,090 BTU per gallon and LP gas 84,950 BTU per gallon. The fuel economy gets even worse with E85, a loss of 7 to 8 miles per gallon with its higher ethanol content. Consumer Reports, testing in 2006, verified a loss in fuel economy of up to 30 percent in a Chevy Tahoe designed to run on flex fuel when it was tested with both unleaded gas and E85. Poor fuel economy can also be attributed to improper fuel system calibration based on computer feedback from oxygen sensors because of the temperatures needed to burn ethanol.
  • Virtually any grain considered feedstock can be used to make ethanol, but some grains are better for producing ethanol than others. Corn happens to be one of the worst grains for making ethanol but we produce so much more of it than any other grain that it was the ingredient of choice for U.S. ethanol producers. In South America, ethanol is produced from sugar cane, which is easier to refine and gives a higher yield per acre than corn (1,200 gallons per acre vs. 300 gallons per acre of corn). The U.S. government did impose a 55 cents per gallon tariff to prevent the import of sugar cane-based ethanol into the United States, though that tariff has recently expired).
  • Ethanol is hygroscopic, which means it absorbs water more easily than gasoline. That leads to water condensation inside fuel tanks, carburetor fuel bowls and fuel lines where air spaces are present. Water content in fuel will also swell up the paper filter media inside fuel filters not specifically designed for flex fuels and can thus restrict fuel flow at the filter.
  • Ethanol also erodes fiberglass tanks, rubber hoses and plastic fuel lines. It contributes to rust in fuel systems by creating condensation in the unfilled portion of gas tanks. It will also dissolve varnish and rust in steel fuel components. These dissolved ingredients sit in the bottom of gas tanks until they are removed or they will enter the fuel system if the fuel level in the tank gets too low.

So, what are some steps you can take to diminish the damage from ethanol use in your classic/vintage Porsche? The easiest one is to fill only with 100% pure gas, gas without any ethanol in it. 100% pure gas will be considerably more expensive than the 91/92 octane (Premium/Supreme) E10 found at most gas stations, but if you don’t put many miles on your vintage Porsche each year, the annual cost for pure gas might be a minimal increase. Here is a listing of most of the gas stations in Oregon selling 100% pure gas; also has some recommendations for upgrades you can make to your classic/vintage vehicle. Many come from OEM marine manufacturers who’ve been dealing with ethanol-related fuel issues for awhile now:

  • Replace any plastic or rubber fuel lines with ethanol-resistant hose or nylon tubing.
  • Install a water separator filter in the fuel line leading to the carburetor. Water collects in the filter and can be removed periodically.
  • Replace any fiberglass tanks with steel or aluminum.
  • Ensure that any O-rings in the fuel system are also ethanol-compatible.
  • Keep your tank as full as possible to prevent air space where condensation can form.
  • Use specific ethanol-compatible fuel storage additives. These are normally blue in color. Regular fuel stabilizers will not work unless they are labeled ethanol fuel-compatible.
  • Shop around for a marina or service station that does not pump E10 or E85. None of these stations will be affiliated with a major gasoline producer, but there are still some out there, especially in areas around lakes and rivers where boating is popular. You can find a “pure gas” map of many of these stations online at the Historic Vehicle Association website
  • Vent your fuel system during storage for extended periods; the moisture your fuel system might absorb from the outside will be less than the moisture created in the air space inside.
  • Use a fogging solution in your carburetor during storage to prevent condensation from collecting in fuel bowls.
  • Use of isopropyl alcohol-based dry gas will help to absorb system moisture. Regular dry gas is ethanol-based and will only make the problem worse. Isopropyl-based additives actually combine with the water molecules and removing moisture through the combustion chamber.
  • Use of a flex fuel-compatible fuel filter where possible will prevent degradation of the paper media in your filter by water in the fuel system.

For those of you with more modern vehicles (~1986+), your vehicle is better prepared to deal with the component effects of ethanol. That being said, still be aware of the MPG losses and hygroscopicity from ethanol fuel, so that you can maximize your investment.

Whichever direction you decide to go regarding ethanol-laden gas or 100% pure gas, just make sure to get out and enjoy your Porsche!Please feel welcome to post here with any questions.

Jeremy Williams is the Oregon PCA Technical editor. He co-owns Matrix Integrated Inc. (Matrix Integrated Inc.) with his brother Justin. Jeremy can be reached at [email protected]

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To PCCB or not?

Recently there was an industry article about Porsche’s PCCB (Porsche Ceramic Composite Brake; signified by their yellow calipers) and whether they were the best brakes to use for track days (including high performance driver education, autocross, etc) or those who are heavy-footed on the “slow” pedal. Porsche Australia’s technical representative Paul Watson reported that iron brake discs are recommended over carbon discs for those who are heavy on the brakes or tracking their vehicle. Why? The issue revolves around heat; heat can quickly degrade the carbon fibers in the PCCB discs. The harder you are on the brake pedal, the more friction(heat) builds up, taxing the carbon rotors quicker than iron/steel rotors would be taxed in the same braking scenario.

You might remember long ago that Porsche had stated that PCCB’s could last the lifetime of the vehicle. This could be true for the owner who has the vehicle sitting in a collection and rarely drives it, or who drives light-footed on the brakes. But for spirited drivers and those hard on the brake pedal including during any “track” exercises, PCCB’s may wear out sooner than you anticipated. With replacement costs in the $20k+ range for front and rear, it might make you re-think adorning the sexy PCCB’s on your next Porsche.

So who are PCCB’s probably the best for?

-All-out racecars where the driver wants the lightest unsprung weight for best acceleration and deceleration (calculated in milliseconds), and have the budget for changing out worn brake parts often.

-Those who are light on the brakes and want the unique look of carbon-ceramic rotors and yellow calipers.

-Those who are OCD about keeping their vehicle as clean as possible, as carbon brakes significantly reduce the amount of brake dust accumulating on the wheels/vehicle (although it is important to note that there are ceramic brake pads available for vehicles with iron discs who want to reduce brake dust, but keep in mind ceramic pads typically require a bit more pedal effort to be applied than semi-metallic brake pads do).

Please feel welcome to post here with any questions.

Jeremy Williams is the Oregon PCA Technical editor. He co-owns Matrix Integrated Inc. (Matrix Integrated Inc.) with his brother Justin. Jeremy can be reached at [email protected]

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Porsche Traction in the Winter

Are you daily driving your Porsche sportscar with summer tires in these winter months? Wanting to take it up to the mountain for winter activities, but hesitant to do so because it’s rear-wheel drive (RWD) vs all-wheel drive (AWD)? Or are you driving your AWD Cayenne or Macan up to the mountain with summer tires, confident that AWD will get you through whatever Mother Nature throws your way? Here’s a fantastic video about why winter tires are extremely important in the winter months, on RWD (or FWD) or even AWD vehicles! I think you may be a bit surprised as to what your vehicle is capable of with the proper tires:

Please feel welcome to post here with any questions.

Jeremy Williams is the Oregon PCA Technical editor. He co-owns Matrix Integrated Inc. (Matrix Integrated Inc.) with his brother Justin. Jeremy can be reached at [email protected]

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Wind Buffeting – What is it? How Can I Alleviate it?

Have you ever heard the term “wind buffeting” and wondered what the heck it is? No, it’s not a new buffet restaurant at an Oregon Coast casino.

You’ve most likely experienced it already, but maybe weren’t sure what the phenomenon was called. Remember the times when you’ve been driving near or above freeway speeds with one window down, and you experience that sound and pressure which makes your head feel like it’s about to implode, and the quickest remedy is to roll another window down? That’s wind buffeting, which is described as the turbulent wind pressure experienced while driving at speed. If you’re a motorcyclist you might be familiar with it too; a result of the wind coming around a windshield or a fairing, causing your helmet to shake.

Wind buffeting is an issue on most vehicles, some worse than others. The new generations of Porsche Boxster, Cayman, and 911 are especially prone to this phenomenon. But there is help, beyond driving with both windows up, or both windows down. The folks at AWE Tuning in Pennsylvania are one such company who have created an elegant sort of mirror spoiler, called a Foiler Wind Diffuser, which eliminates wind buffeting on Porsche’s like the 2013+ “981” Boxster’s and Cayman’s, 2017+ 718’s, and 2013+ “991” 911’s.

Do you have an older Porsche model or another vehicle where wind buffeting is causing you a headache, yet there is no solution on the market? Crafty with wood, or familiar with one of the local plastic shops like TAP Plastics? Create your own using this style, and wave goodbye to wind buffeting, while letting the wind blow through your hair (unless you’re bald like me).

Please feel welcome to post here with any questions.

Jeremy Williams is the Oregon PCA Technical editor. He co-owns Matrix Integrated Inc. (Matrix Integrated Inc.) with his brother Justin. Jeremy can be reached at [email protected]

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